I’ve never had to go farther than home for 5-star Chinese food. These are recipes that my mom carried across the ocean with her from our homeland, and it’s part of what connects me to my personal history and extended family in China. And, because I’m functionally a vegetarian (except at Mom’s house, of course!) I never learned how to make most of her meat-based dishes. Her food will always remain a mystery to me, a welcome treat every time I visit home.

—Carol